Isiklik kokkupuude oli lühiajaline, mitmekordne ning hariv. Praktika restorane (2 kõrvuti ühe managemendi käe all) tuunima toodud Michelinikokkade käe all oli enam kui õpetlik. Sest alati on ju kasulik õppida teiste vigadest, kas pole? Uue meeskonna töölekoolitamine, menüü muutused ning lõpmatu tüli tõelise Hispaania chef'iga tegi konsultantide elu põnevaks, aga ellu nad jäid. Ellu jäid tegelikult kõik, isegi tellimuslehti lõikelaua või ahju alla kaotanud peakokk, korduvalt omanike ees ülekuulamisel käinud pisararohke külmköögi juht kui kõik muud. Ainult ajutised abilised, kes lootsid tööd leida, nagu mina või siis Jorge, parim KP keda oma silmaga olen näinud, pakkisid oma noad või lapid ja otsisid mõne aja pärast tööd edasi.
Aga seda olulise kogemuse võrra rikkamana, ja just sellest ma tahtsin rääkida. Sellest, mis mõjutab praegust Hispaania kööki ja maitsemeeli. Märgusõnaks Jaapan. Ja La Majas kõlas see nii:
Madalal kuumusel bain mariel hautatud kanakintsud tsitruse-ingveri marinaadis, mis lõpuks bao vahele täidiseks said. Klassikaline grilitud kaheksajalg bataadipadjal, serveerituna paprikase riivsaiaga. Toores sojamarineeritud makrellifilee tulel grillitud munataime ning ahjus röstitud küüslaugu püreega. Ja nii edasi.
Lõpuks lihtsus, kogu mängu ilu. Edamamed. Sojaoad, mis tunduvad aina enam populaarsust võitma.
Nii nad ka minu kööki tee leidsid. Küll pisut teises lahenduses kui La Majas, kuid siiski.
Paar peotäit ube pisku vee ja tamarindikastmega otse kuumale wok-pannile, pisut ootust ning hiinapärane terav BBQ kaste lisaks. Veel pisut vett, ootust, seesamiõli, riisiäädikat ning lõpuks seesamiseemned, soovitavalt röstitud. Serveerimiseks pisut tuld tunda saanud tšillilõike ning laimimahla, ja nii ongi. Perfekte suupiste või siis siinne versioon õlleubadest. Kes proovib see soovib!
PS! Photo By Varga. Thank You Balazs!
Edamame. La Maja.
Among dozens of restaurants at the seafront of Altea,
there is one which has a serious ambition to achieve a certain star.
Unfortunately the Spanish mańana culture and a proper mess in the management of
the mentioned place has inhibited that hope and expectation appreciably.
My personal contact was short-term, multiple and
educational. Practicing under the guidance of Michelin chefs, who were brought
there to fine-tune the restaurants (2 restaurants side by side, managed by one
company), was more than enlightening. Because it is always useful to learn from
the mistakes of others, isn't it? Employment training of the new team, changes
in the menu and unending fight with a real Spanish chef, made the life of the
consultants exciting, but they survived. In fact, everyone survived, even the
chef who lost the order forms under the cutting board or stove, manager of cold
kitchen, who repeatedly went to the interrogation by the owners and all the
rest. Only the temporary assistants who were hoping to find a job, like myself
or Jorge (the best Kitchen Porter my eyes have ever seen), packed their knives
or cloths and kept on looking for work after some time. But significantly
richer in experience and that is exactly what I wanted to talk about. About
what is influencing the current Spanish kitchen and the senses of taste. The
cue is Japan. In La Maja it sounded as this:
Chicken legs braised at low heat on bain marie in citrus-ginger marinade, which finally became the
filling in the bao-wrap. Classical
grilled octopus on a sweet potato pad, served with breadcrumbs of sweet pepper
flavor. Raw soya-marinated mackerel fillet with fire-grilled eggplant and
garlic puree roasted in the oven. And so on.
And finally simplicity, beauty of the game: Edamame. Soybeans, which seem to gain ground
more and more.
So they found their way to my kitchen as well. In a slightly
different solution than in La Maja, but still.
A few handfuls of beans with a little water and tamarind
sauce directly on a hot wok pan, after some waiting add a chinese-style hot BBQ
sauce. Some more water, waiting, sesame oil, rice vinegar and finally sesame
seeds (preferably roasted). Serve with some chili slices (which have felt the
fire), lime juice and that's it. A perfect snack or a local version of the
beans that go by the beer. Test it and request it!
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