Omanik, Sind tööle sooviv lakilokkidega Itaalia päritolu libedik, ei suvatse end niiöelda töövestluse ajaks oma merevaaterõdult isegi alla vedada. Mańana, ehk kõik võib viibida ja venida ja edasi lükkuda, sest nii oli ja on ja jääbki kombeks. Siin, kus tegelikus elus mańanatamist võimaldavat heaoluaega ehk võimalust tulu teenida restoettevõtjate jaoks on ca 4 kuud pluss 4 päeva...
Aga jah, libediku juurde tagasi. Tegelikus elus ootas kuskil kaunis vanalinnas tema teine restoran, mis järjekordse koka lahkumise tõttu keset kestvat sügishooaega uksed sulges. Turistilõks kõigi oma veidruste ja alatustega, ainsaks puuduseks omaniku hinnangul asjaolu, et kaader on voolav. Claro, räägime asjast ja vaatame mis saab teha. Töövestlus lõppes teatega, et restorani menüüga on võimalik tutvuda selle ukse taga oleval teadetetahvlil ning järgmisel päeval alustame kehaliste katsete ja proovitööga. Kiired pildid nutifoniga ja koju guugeldama.
Menüü ambitsioonikus ehk täpsemalt selle puudumine, mis tegelikus elus tähendab kõigi teiste turiste ohustavate restoranide kopeerimist ("autentne Hispaania köök selle parimas lahenduses"), ei lubanud erilisi eelarvamusi luua. Küsimärgina jäi kõlama sõna asador, mis ajalooliselt võiks grillimaja või siis elaval tulel liha valmistavat kõrtsu, torreoni, tähendada. Muuseas, järgmisel päeval sain aru, milles teema - poole köögist moodustas üks suuremaid ja autentsemaid ajaloolisi elava tule grille so far.
Menüü läbi guugeldatud, enam kui küll küsimusi kõrvade vahel, nii sai proovipäevale jõutud. Mõningase ootamise järel loivas kohale restoranikuninga tentsik, kes avas tee ühte ärapeetumasse kööki, mida oma silmaga näinud ja kuulnud olen. Kiire ülevaade hiidkülmkirstude kohta, mis sisaldavat kruiisilaeva nädalanormi jagu parimat liha ja nii edasi. 10 minutit, härra lahkus, sisenes ettekandja, kelle näost võis eksimatult välja lugeda nukra mõtte, et "Järjekordne loll saadeti mu päeva rikkuma..."
Mõningase reservatsiooniga avasin külmkapid ja hoiuruumid ning ei pidanud pettuma. Lugejate vaimutervise ja söögiisu huvides jätan detailid enda teada, kuid vihjeks niipalju, et esimese nädala lõpuks olin väljakaevamistega sedavõrd kaugel, et külmkirstu sügavas põhjas lehvitas rõõmsalt lambakints aastast 2009...
Fast forward. Et teil ka edaspidi midagi lugeda oleks, jätan vahele terve rea vahvaid vahesündmusi, mille kesmes olid üliagarad omanikud, pidevalt hilinevaid tarnijaid, purjus või pilves ettekandjaid ja lood, kuidas nädalalõpu toitude väljasaatmiseks kaeti taldrikutega ka kontorilaud, sest kliente püüti enam kui köögil kapasiteeti. Lisaks öised jooksumaratonid vanalinnas gaasiballoonide või paellakoormaga.
Lubina. Väidevalt meriahven. Üks toit, mida minu restorani menüüs ei olnud, kuid oli itaallase impeeriumi teises restoranis kroonijuveeliks, valmistusmeetodiks soolakoormas küpsetatuna. Ja ootamatult küsib laudkond meilt, et ehk saame pakkuda, hea meelega sööks siiski siin. Teine restoran meid ilmselgelt teenindada ei oleks suutnud, seega kiire otsus ja kala ahju (muuseas, just samal päeval oli meile eksituse tõttu toimetatud korralik hunnik värsket kala, mida teises restoranis oodati, irw).
Serveeritud, komplimendid saadud, otsustasime ettekandjaga tehtud kangelasteost ka emalaeva teavitada. Telefoni teise otsa tekkis hirmuäratav vaikus, 5 minutit hiljem saabus delegatsioon ülejäänud kalavaru konfiskeerima ning külastajate vaimset kui füüsilist tervist kontrollima. Fakt, et mainitud moel hinnalise kalaroa valmistamine oli koka jaoks esmakordne, ei tundunud direktoreid maha rahustavat.
Aga see kõik lõi kokku soodsa pinnase antud kala vastu süvendatud huvi tekkimiseks. Mida ja kuidas veel? Soodne hetk saabus uut, oma menüüd, juba hoopis mujal välja töötades. Kohalik kalaroog, oleme ju rannapiirkond ja sadamas maabuvad kalalaevad, no kuidas siis ilma?
Tulemus. Lubina ehk mõni muu hõrk värske valge kala tilga hea oliiviõliga vaakumkotti ja sealt edasi peene nimega vesivanni (kiirtõlkes kui valus Mari). 62 kraadi ja 12-15 minutit tundus olema perfektne lahendus, mille jooksul on parasjagu aega aedviljapüree kuumaksajamiseks ning valge veini ja rohelise pipra kastme kokkukeetmiseks (näpuga soola ja pruuni suhkrut, kokkukeetmine pärast sõelumist sobiva kastmepaksendajaga). No vot. Kuum taldrik kapist ja tuld! Kalale pisut head maldooni soola, garneering omal valikul. Veinisoovitus Francisco Gomez Sauvignion Blanc ökovein. Nii on.
Lubina al sal a la myself. Forbidden dish.
To keep up the prospective interest of the readers, I add a
chapter about apparently one the most significant stopping places
characterizing Spanish restaurant business.
The owner. A sleek Italian guy with lacquer curls (who wants
you to work for him) does not even bother to get off his balcony overlooking
the sea, to interview you. Mańana,
means everything may happen with a delay and get postponed. Because it has
always been like that and always will. Here, where in reality there are only 4
months plus 4 days for the restaurant business to earn the treasures that can
enable the prosperity to mańanaing (sry,
translator's creation)...
But yes, back to the sleek Italiano. In real life there was
his second restaurant waiting somewhere in the beautiful old town, which he had
been forced to close in the middle of the autumn season due to the leave of
another chef. A tourist trap with all it's quirks and sneakiness’s which only
drawback according to the owner was the fluctuation of personnel. Claro, let's
talk and see what there is to do about
it! The interview ended with an announcement that the menu of the restaurant is
out on the board next to the front door of the place to be studied and the physical tests and trial run
would take place the following day. Quick shots with my smartphone and home I
went to google! The ambition of the menu or absence of it (if to be more
precise), which actually meant copying all the other tourist-threatening
restaurants("An authentic Spanish cuisine
in it's best), did not allow to create any preconceptions really. A
question mark stayed echoing above the word asador,
which historical meaning could have been a grill house or a tavern (a torreon) which prepares meat on a
living fire. Next day I found out what
it was about- there was a half of the kitchen size grill of living fire, one
of the biggest and most authentic I have seen so far.
After googling the menu, with more than enough questions
between my two ears, I arrived on the trial day. After some waiting arrived a
footman of the owner who opened the door to one of the most spent kitchens what
my eyes had seen and heard. A quick review on giant freezers, which contained
the best meat and fish for a whole week in amount appropriate for a cruise
ship. It all took 10 minutes and the deputy left. Now entered the waiter from
whose face I could infallibly read a sad thought: "A next fool has been sent
to ruin my day..."
With some reservation I opened the freezers and storages and
did not have to get disappointed. In the interest of the reader's mental health
and appetite I leave the details to myself. Only for a hint that much: by the
end of the first week I had reached that far with my excavations to meet a happily
waving leg of lamb from the year 2009...
Fast forward. In order to supply you with further material,
I skip at the moment a row of spunky incidents with officious owners,
constantly late suppliers, drunk or high waiters and stories how in the weekends
even the office tables were covered with plates waiting to be sent out for the
clients (because more clients were caught than the kitchen's capacity allowed).
Plus the night marathons in the old town with gas balloons or loads of Paella.
Lubina. Allegedly
a sea bass. A dish that was NOT in the menu of my restaurant, but happened to
be a crown jewel in the other restaurant of the Italian’s empire. Preparation method: cooked in the pile of
salt. And then suddenly a table asks if we could serve it too, they would
rather eat it here. The other restaurant could obviously not have been able to
cook it for us, a quick decision and the fish went to the oven (By the
accident we had got a good pile of
fresh fish earlier that day, that was meant for the other restaurant...)
Served, compliments received, me and the waiter decided to
make announcement about the exploit to the mother ship. A terrifying silence in
the other end of the line...5 minutes later arrived a delegation to confiscate
the rest of the fish stock plus check the consumers mental and physical health.
A fact the above mentioned method for preparing the fish was a first time for a
cook, did not seem to calm the directors.
All that together created a fertile ground for a deeper
interest towards that fish. What and how else? A right moment arrived creating
new, my own menu in a totally different place . Local fish dish (as we are on the
waterfront and the fish ships land in the port) how else!?
The result. Lubina
or any other delicate fresh white fish. With a drop of good olive oil you put
it into the vacuum bag and it goes to the water bath (in finer words bain marie).
62 degrees and 12 to 15 minutes seemed to be a perfect solution. Use that time
to heat up the vegetable puree and make a right sauce with white wine and green
pepper (a pinch of salt and brown sugar, after sieving boil it with a suitable
thickener). That's it. Hot plate from
the heater and fire! A little bit of maldon salt for the fish, garnish on
choice. Recommended wine: Francisco Gomez Sauvignon Blanc eco. That's that!
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